The main copper tank part of the condenser has a threaded bush already fitted.
Assembly of the condenser is quite straightforward. You will require:
A small gas blowtorch, solder & flux. "Plumbers solder" & a suitable flux is preferred, but electrical type "Multicore"solder will be sufficient, as the condenser is not a pressure vessel and does not get hot enough during normal use in a small steam plant to melt soft solder. Solder paint will make the neatest job, but do not use too little, using a thicker "fillet" of solder for strength is advisable. If your live steam application uses extremely high temperature superheated steam, then a higher melting point solder is recommended. Silver soldering is possible if you have the experience of using silver solder, which requires a far higher temperature than soft solder to make it work successfully. Also the subsequent cleanup process of the oxidisation will necessitate repolishing the top cap.
1) Cleanliness of the components to be soldered is essential, so using wire wool, scourer pad or emery cloth, thoroughly clean around the base of the copper tube at both ends, inside & out, for a distance of at least 1/2 inch or 2cm.
2) Place the square brass base on a suitable non - flammable support which will not conduct the heat away from the items being soldered. Place the copper tube on the base, making sure that it locates squarely in the machined recess. The face of steam inlet bush on the tube needs to be parallel with one of the sides of the base.
3) With your blowtorch, heat up the copper tank & brass base until the two parts are hot enough to melt the solder. Do not overheat the components, as they will distort and be damaged. The components just need to be hot enough for the solder to "run". The solder stick or wire should be applied to the inside of the copper tank where it meets the brass base. Also at this stage, run some solder aroung the threaded inlet bush in the side of the condenser to seal it. When the solder flows into a continuous fillet, it is time to remove the heat & leave the assembly to cool.
4) Once the components are cool, using wire wool, scourer pad or emery cloth, re-clean the other end of the copper tank, ready to solder the top cap in place.
5) Place the top cap of the condenser on your soldering support, with the recess uppermost. At this point you need to decide which way you need to have the exhaust & drain tap holes relative to the steam input on the side of the tank. Place the part soldered tank upside down on the cap making sure once again that the tank sits in the recess in the cap, and that the side inlet bush is at 90 degrees to the centre line of the two threaded holes in the top of the condenser.
6) Using your blowtorch, heat the tank & top area to a sufficient temperature to melt the solder & feed the solder so that it runs all around the joint between the top cap & the tank part. Important: Immediately after this stage do not move any part of the assembly until it is thoroughly cool. Do not quench in water.
7) When the entire assembly is cool to the touch, clean up the copper part with wire wool in soapy water. Be careful not to touch the brass parts with the wire wool, this would scratch the surface. Clean the brass parts with metal polish & a cloth.
8) When fitting the drain tap & exhaust outlet fitting into the top of the condenser, be careful not to cross thread or over tighten them or you may damage the fine 1/4 x 40 threads.
Final finish can be polished brass & copper parts, or painted the colour of your choice. Alternatively the condenser can be clad in strip mahogany, available from your local model shop.